An ecclesiastical mood, permeated Jean Paul Gaultier's collection, while Giorgio Armani unveiled his new work to a star-studdend crowd, writes Hilary Alexander

Religion is a delicate subject to use as fashion inspiration and the French designer Jean Paul Gaultier trod a fine line between reverence and blasphemy in his haute couture collection in Paris yesterday.

Gaultier took the Virgin Mary as an iconic symbol, furnishing his models - including the burlesque performer Dita Von Teese - with halo head-dresses in stained glass, plastic, flowers and metal.

The models' hair was styled in the manner of medieval religious paintings, combed in long strands on either side of their faces, which were painted with coloured tears.

An ecclesiastical mood, reminiscent of painted, wooden icons and Russian Orthodox churches, permeated the clothes which were often robe-like, in jewel-toned silk and pastel chiffon, with hooded cloaks, floating panels and trains.

Other gowns featured prints and patchwork details of angels and cherubs among stylised clouds.

The British model Erin O'Connor appeared in a long gown, printed like stained glass windows in a church, with a fabric "corsage" of a naked baby boy perched on her left shoulder.

Other models appeared in elaborate crocheted gowns with their hair twisted into metal halos to resemble the rays of the sun.

Earlier, the Italian couturier Giorgio Armani hosted a preview of his Privé collection which he unveiled last night in a 600-seat, semi-circular black fashion theatre built in two days in the city's Museum of Modern Art.

The show drew one of the most star-studded front rows of this Paris season including the Oscar nominee Cate Blanchett, Lady Helen Taylor and Katie Holmes.

The collection was inspired by the elaborate costumes and regalia of the former Maharajahs of India.

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PARIS: French designer Jean Paul Gaultier keeps on thinking about Madonna. But on Wednesday, it was the Virgin Mary — not the pop icon — that was on his mind.

Gaultier, who is famous for creating Madonna’s notorious conical bra, had models take the veil for his spring-summer haute couture collection, which was inspired by childhood memories of his religious upbringing in a suburb of Paris.

"It is simply the image of purity and serenity," the designer said after the show. "We were looking for a little corner of paradise."

Gaultier found it with his opening series of crisply tailored suits that showed a rare mastery of cut and proportion. An ivory crepe hooded jacket was given a subtle erotic twist with cutout shoulders and corset lacing in the back.

Religious references were woven through the display, from a rope belt securing an Empire-line waist to a stained glass print on a black jersey sheath. Model’s heads were wreathed with halos of silver, orange perspex or sheaves of golden wheat.

A flowing gray jersey gown was embroidered with an "ex voto" heart that spewed a trail of blood-red chiffon, in a shining example of the merger of creativity and technique that is the hallmark of made-to-measure haute couture.

And a shimmering black sequined babydoll with a cross cutout in the front was anything but chaste
Guests including former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham and French actress Catherine Deneuve roared their approval as Gaultier took his bow to Madonna’s hit song "Like a Virgin."

Leading fashion photographer Ali Mahdavi, who once exhibited photos of mummified cats and dogs in ecclesiastical robes, said the show was one of the designer’s best.

"The way he handled the religious theme was extremely subtle, because he managed to take the iconography without reducing it to primary cliches, all the while bringing to it a real touch of modernity," Mahdavi told The Associated Press.

The photographer was especially enthused by the catwalk appearance of his sometime model, burlesque artist Dita Von Teese, who was transformed for the occasion into a Spanish-style Virgin Mary with a red rose crown and fake tears tumbling down her cheek.

Asked if Von Teese was mourning the end of her marriage to shock rocker Marilyn Manson, Gaultier said: "Yes, that must be it. She was bleeding a little, there was some blood and some red, but that’s what is beautiful about passion, no? It’s love and pain at the same time."

A fixture in the front row of the Paris shows, Von Teese has become an icon for designers fascinated by her flawless retro style. She has starred in an advertising campaign for British designer Vivienne Westwood

WOW!

ehuffnsd said:

Is that "Lady Liberty" after George Bush has had his way with her?

PurpleJedi said:

i don't think Columbia would let George Bush anywhere near her!! She's a tough lady and her Flame of Liberty will out live him!!! Please i think W isn't anywhere near cool enough to even have a chance with Lady Liberty

wow! brilliant! i really love these two



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i like the head piece. not too fond of the rest.